On May 29, 1953, a historic event took place. Edmund Hillary became the first person to reach the summit of Mount Everest. However, he couldn’t have accomplished this feat without the help of Sherpa Tenzing Norgay, his climbing partner and an integral part of the expedition.
Tenzing Norgay was a Nepali-Indian Sherpa with extensive experience in mountaineering. He had been on more expeditions up the mountain than anyone else at that time. Throughout the expedition, Norgay stood by Hillary’s side, providing crucial support and guidance.
Despite the joint effort in reaching the summit, Hillary received most of the attention and credit for the achievement, while Norgay was often portrayed as a mere guide. In reality, Norgay played a pivotal role in the success of the expedition, earning him the title of the “unsung hero” of the climb.
The Early Years Of Tenzing Norgay
Tenzing Norgay, originally named Namgyal Wangdi, was born around 1914 in either Nepal or Tibet. His early years were spent near the Himalayas, the region that would shape his future and lead him to guide Hillary to the top of the world.
From a young age, Norgay displayed a love for mountaineering. This passion was fueled by his upbringing in Kharta, Tibet, where he frequently attempted adventurous excursions to Kathmandu, Nepal, and Darjeeling, India. Eventually, his parents sent him to work for a Sherpa family in Khumbu, Nepal.
As a Sherpa, Norgay had a natural affinity and understanding of the mountains. Although not all Sherpas are mountaineers, they possess unique skills and familiarity with the region that make them exceptional guides. Norgay’s early experiences nurtured his mountaineering abilities and instilled in him a reverence for Mount Everest, which the locals call Chomolungma.
In 1935, at the age of 20, Norgay had his first opportunity to join an Everest expedition led by English mountaineer Eric Shipton. He stepped in at the last minute when two other Sherpas failed their medical assessments. Although Shipton’s team did not reach the summit, Norgay continued to participate in subsequent climbs on Everest, including one led by renowned British mountaineer John Morris in 1936.
Norgay’s mountaineering career continued to flourish. By 1947, he had already climbed Everest four times, participating in expeditions led by various international teams. In 1952, he reached an altitude of 28,199 feet, the highest anyone had ever gone on the mountain at that time.
Despite his accomplishments, Norgay had yet to fulfill his ultimate goal of reaching the summit. However, that dream was about to become a reality.
The Historic Summit Of The Mighty Mountain
In 1953, British Army Colonel John Hunt organized the ninth expedition to summit Mount Everest. This expedition included 400 people, mainly porters and Sherpa guides. The massive group carried around 10,000 pounds of equipment and supplies.
One of the most dramatic moments of the expedition occurred just before the climb began. Hillary slipped while scaling a wall and narrowly escaped falling into a crevasse, thanks to Norgay’s swift action. With his in-depth knowledge of the Himalayas, Norgay reacted quickly, securing Hillary’s rope with his ice axe and potentially saving his life.
This harrowing incident solidified the bond between Hillary and Norgay, who became not only climbing partners but also close friends. Over the course of more than two months, the Hunt expedition made their way up the mountain, setting up base camp at the South Col.
After several unsuccessful attempts by other pairs, it was Norgay and Hillary’s turn to make the final push. Scaling a challenging 40-foot rock face now known as Hillary Step, the duo reached the summit on May 29, 1953, at 11:30 a.m. Their ascent was swift, with Hillary describing the experience as a few final whacks of the ice axe before standing on top.
Once they reached the summit, Hillary took a photo of Norgay with his ice axe but declined a photo of himself. The team also captured images of the mountain from the top, validating their accomplishment. After spending around 15 minutes at the summit, they began their descent.
Who Was The First Person To Climb Mount Everest?
The question of who was the true first person to climb Mount Everest arose amidst the press coverage of the historic expedition. Initially, neither Hillary nor Norgay divulged who reached the summit first, emphasizing their collective achievement. However, this only fueled people’s curiosity.
Norgay faced added pressure as both India and Nepal wanted to claim him as their own. The controversy surrounding his nationality became so intense that some extremists threatened journalists for using the “wrong” nationality. Nevertheless, Colonel Hunt consistently emphasized that they reached the summit together as a team.
Despite the joint effort, Hillary received more attention and accolades than Norgay. While Hillary was knighted by the Queen, Norgay was awarded a medal. In 2013, Norgay’s grandson expressed his belief that his grandfather deserved knighthood, as he was a full-fledged member of the expedition, not just a Sherpa guide.
Over time, Norgay started to receive more recognition for his role in the expedition. Nepal and India honored him with multiple awards until his death in 1986 at the age of 71 due to a chronic lung problem.
Today, climbers of Mount Everest acknowledge Norgay’s invaluable contribution. In 2013, a rock formation was named in honor of Norgay, similar to the recognition bestowed upon Hillary. While it took some time for Norgay to receive proper acknowledgment, Colonel Hunt always maintained that they reached the summit together, united as a team.